Issue 1 Things to so in Sharm when you're Dry, Part 1: Mount Sinai from the Archives of the London Diver Magazine

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Thursday 20 November 2008

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	ISSUE 1 ARCHIVE - THINGS TO SO IN SHARM WHEN YOU'RE DRY, PART 1: MOUNT SINAI We've all heard the noise. It starts as a low whine, gets repetitive and finishes in a crescendo until recognized. "Do you haaaaaave to go diving today. It's supposed to be a holiday for the BOTH of us. I work just as hard as you and we should do something together... for once." Well, unless you want to spend your hard earned time off and cash, with just a piece of papyrus with "your name" in hieroglyphics (when we all know the Pharoahs didn't have a glyph for "sucker"), then read on. There's a whole lot more to dry-time in Sharm than aimless shopping, luminous palm trees and rocky beaches. Go take a look at the sea. Slowly turn round 180 degrees. Whaddya see? Sand, mountains and the Sinai Desert. It can be exhilarating, and imprint more on the mind than even your first manta. Let's go exploring... Sinai: This word originates from the word "sin". A lunar deity of ancient times. It is not an un-ironic term considering the activities of most off duty Instructors at the Camel bar. An alternate theory is that the Hebrew for hatred is "Sin-ah". And as Judaism teaches that those receiving God's divine word first would be hated, the term could have come from the fact that the Hebrew people got to the 10 Commandments before anyone else. It could perhaps help coin a new term for those first in the queue at a new Primark opening. Mount Sinai: Otherwise known as Jabal Musa, this is the mountain, on top of which Moses received the 10 Commandments from God. So, a pretty important place, considering these laws have been the basis of how we all behave for all time. Except for Richard Dawkins, whose genes tell him not to covet his neighbour's ass.
	It rises to 2,285 metres but is not the tallest peak of the area. Mount St Catherine, more an invitation than a map reference is 400 metres higher. There are 3 ways to the top. Longer, and less steep is the track called Siket El Bashait. You'll need good boots or a camel hired from the local Bedouin for this route, and it takes up to 3 hours of hiking. Shorter and steeper is the Siket Saydina Musa, or the "Steps of Penitence" which ascends straight up from the ravine behind the monastery. 3,750 steps in all, it's for those feeling fit and penitent. It takes about the same time to walk as the Siket El Bashait. Less even if you have a lot of guilt to get rid of. Quickest, most expensive and exclusively reserved for visiting dignitaries of a wheezy disposition is a helicopter. And considering that Mr. Blair has a penchant for borrowing houses out in Sharm, can I suggest that he does the "Steps of Penitence" in record time when he's next out, and forgets the Bell Huey on offer. When you finally get to the top, it's all about the view. My God [Well he did choose it. Ed] what a view it is. Right across the Sinai peninsula, down to the tippy bit where no doubt your friends will be diving. If you can get there for dawn, well done you and her. It's all the more awesome. At the top are 2 buildings – Starbucks and a Tesco Express. Actually it's a Greek Orthodox chapel and a small mosque. Though the former no doubt will come. The chapel was built in 1934 on the ruins of a 16th century church and inside it is the rock from which God made the Tablets of Law. Both buildings are closed though. A darn shame considering the lengths you've gone to get there. So c'mon you Greek Orthodox, let us have a look at that Rock of Law. But it's about the view really. Biblical Mount Sinai: of course in life, nothing is ever as it seems. There are other theories on where the Tablets were handed over. Apparently we used to know the exact location but due to lack of floppies in the 1st century it's been forgotten. Here are the other respected theories:
	Hashem el-Tarif: James Cameron of Titanic, The Abyss and the much underrated Piranha 2-The Spawning fame has spent a few quid out here exploring for TV documentaries. It has a plateau big enough to hold thousands of people and food for flocks. And camera crews no doubt. Giza: Ralph Ellis in his book The Falcon of Sheba reckons Moses was atop the Great Pyramid all along. Stick to the cat food Ralph. Jebel-al-Madhbah: or The High Place at Petra, Jordan. Ditlef Neilsen having been there in 1927 proposed this 1000m site as it has pools and a staircase. His theory is strongly supported by the Jordan Tourist Board. The Bandstand, Clapham Common: my particular favourite as it makes religious tourism a whole lot easier for Londoners and does wonders for local house prices. St Catherine's Monastery: This the oldest active monastery in the world. It was built by order of Emperor Justinian I in 527 A.D. to enclose, and protect the Chapel of the Burning Bush created by Helena, the mother of Constantine I as well as to house the bones of St Catherine. It is a sacred site to 3 major world religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam, and this may well explain its longevity as faiths have changed in that area over the centuries. In fact there is a document in possession of the monastery, signed by Mohammed himself, guaranteeing protection for the monastery, after it had provided sanctuary when he was fleeing his enemies. A mosque lies within the monastery walls too, but is not used as it was built with the wrong alignment to Mecca.
	The complex also houses many priceless works of art, notably early icon work; it has the oldest icon in the Old Testament theme from the 5th century. However more importantly the monastery library preserves the second largest collection of early codices and manuscripts in the world. Only the Vatican Library has more. So expect to see Dan Brown shuffling around, notebook in hand. Saint Catherine: a virgin and martyr, her Feast Day is November 25th. She is the patron saint of female students and all young women. Born of nobility she became learned in sciences and when only 18 decided to confront the tyrannical Emperor Maximus, who was slaughtering all the Christians. Confounded by her sharp mind, he sent along a succession of bright thinkers to convert her to Roman beliefs. They all failed and were converted themselves to her ways. They were all beheaded. So Maximus had her imprisoned. But what really did it for him, was when his wife and Porphyry, his top General went out of interest to see Catherine in the dungeon, they were also converted. Maximus did his nut, executed them and put Catherine to the wheel- a spiked apparatus that kills in minutes. She survived that. Maximus then had her beheaded. And as the story goes, she was taken by angels to Mount Sinai. St Catherine is still associated with the wheel, that failed to execute her first time round. Hence the name of the firework that never seems to rotate properly. Getting there: Mount Sinai and the monastery can be done in a day. Camel Divers and Hotel offer trips for 50 Euros a head, though at least 4 are needed to go. Some prefer a night trip to the mountain, watching the sun rise in the morning and seeing St Catherines on the way back. Expect to pay up to 80-100 Euros for this longer time. Take plenty of water, and remember deserts at night can be colder than your ex-partners heart. St Catherine's Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site-so please leave things untampered and tidy. Mind you, so is Liverpool so forget that.
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